WINNIE MANDELA, THE MOTHER OF THE SOUTH AFRICAN NATION
Winnie Madikizela-Mandela was called the mother of the Nation in South Africa. Winnie was remembered for fighting apartheid in South Africa and struggling for the country’s liberation alongside her husband Nelson Mandela. Her vivid wardrobe becoming linked to her message of empowerment and perseverance, earned her the style icon rights.
Winnie wore traditional outfits and accessories during a time when donning cultural wear was seen as a political taboo. She also popularized the “doek” the South African Headwrap, wearing it unashamedly throughout the years her former husband, Nelson Mandela, famously wore a Xhosa outfit to court in 1962, when he was tried for leaving the country without a valid passport. Winnie reaffirmed his point by donning traditional dress too. Nelson Mandela, in his book Long Walk to Freedom, explained the symbolism of his outfit, “The Kaross was a sign of contempt for the niceties of white justice”. Surrounded by white noise, violence and patriarchy she turned her clothing into a language, which communicated power. Her long time designer, Sonwabile Ndamase said “Winnie turned around the South African fashion aesthetically”. Ndamase said, “Winnie wanted to enhance the Mpondo look because it represented her roots, and since she was far away from home and also needed to make Johannesburg her new home. She wanted to dress like her ancestors so that she could draw strength from that. And it humbled her and gave her ubuntu”. Winnie often reflected her African roots with her choice of beaded jewelry or headwraps, and dressed for an occasion by experimenting with colours, channeling the Xhosa, Zulu and Ndebele heritages, plus donning extravagant accessories. Her style was extravagant, unapologetic and culturally profound, which became a large part of her identity. She made South African women believe in who they are, and made traditional wear acceptable, other than the black tie, tux and the European dress code.
Winnie endured exile to a remote township slum, solitary confinement and suffered torture at the hands of the minority. She also stood accused of fraud, theft, kidnap and murder. In spite of all these however, she has been revered and reviled over the decades. When Nelson Mandela was released from prison in 1990, she marked the jubilant day in a sober black and white outfit, which was relatively in contrast to her usual preference for vibrant, colourful outfits on celebratory occasions. After Mandela became president, she picked up a style to look the part of the president’s wife. Her style choices were austere combinations, tunic suits, embroidered boubous, modest skirts and jacket combinations. Her fabric and colour were a fine combination and well-coordinated. Whether it was in her traditional Xhosa attire or her everyday wear, included layers of embroidered patterns, jewels and pearls. She loved pearls and her robes were always on the flamboyant side, adorned with beauty and class. Winnie wore fashionable traditional clothing to gala dinners and exclusive banquets. Her fashion style seems to have screamed pride, unapologetic swagger and reward after a lifetime of sacrifice. Her wardrobe was so powerful, and in the eyes of the South Africans she reinforced her enigmatic reputation through her clothes, as they reaffirmed her extraordinary legacy.
She showed her loyalty to the party African National Congress (ANC) by incorporating it colours into her outfits. In the ANC regalia, she was always an epitome of style. When Winnie decided to own her political career as president of the ANC Women’s League, she campaigned tirelessly while she switched back to pan-African prints and vibrant kaftans, titanic turbans and traditional beaded Xhosa accessories. Sometimes, Winnie flaunted her militant credentials by referencing her looks to the 70s as a fire band activist or in the 80s as a revolutionary figure. She used Che Guevera style berets, matronly suits ferocious animal prints for her political moments. In 2009, at the fist-pumping election rally, she dorned a masculine black blazer, red and green T-Shirt and Che Guevera style beret, where she invoked the memory of her revolutionary past. At the opening of the ANC party conference in 2013, she was bundled in some accessories and swathed in a medley of cheetah, jaguar and leopard print. It sure was an uber feminine look. Her style in the public eye clashed with her early image of a docile housewife dressed in demure and prim western-style clothes and pearls, she was seen as a dangerous antagonist of the apartheid regime. While a fearless activist and campaigner for racial equality and freedom, she was an icon of style for some. Her fashion clothes reflected her difficulties and the complicated balance of her public and private life.
During the peak of the freedom struggle and Mandela’s years in prison, she chose outfits that conveyed strongly her support of anti-apartheid and black liberation. In her self-representation, she made herself the symbol and the vehicle of a new symbolism rooted in black empowerment, turning her outfits into an extension of her beliefs. Winnie was especially fond of beadwork and wore it often throughout her life. Winnie’s style influenced the movie, Black Panther’s costume, as the designer Ruth Carter saw her as an inspiration.
Winnie’s clothing recalled key moments in her own unique personal story, one that spans from freedom fighter to first lady, also reflects the changes South Africa had experienced in her lifetime. Winnie had quintessential style and grace throughout the years, and always prided herself in her clothing. She married Mandela in 1958. They were separated 2 years later when Mandela went to prison in for 27years and they got divorced in 1996. Winnie on April 2nd 2018, passed away at the age of 81 years.
